“Give priority to quality, strive for excellence”: Mathieu Roland-Billecart about Billecart-Salmon

For over 200 years, Billecart-Salmon has stood for continuity, precision, and an uncompromising commitment to quality. Founded in 1818, the champagne house from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is still run by the founding family today and ranks among the most renowned names in Champagne. Shaped by a deeply rooted philosophy and a commitment to harmonizing tradition and innovation, the house’s champagnes enjoy a high reputation worldwide—both in top-tier gastronomy and among discerning connoisseurs.

In this interview, Mathieu Roland-Billecart, a representative of the seventh generation and now at the helm of the family-run champagne house, discusses the importance of continuity and family heritage, the balance between tradition and innovation, the house’s distinctive style, and the unique characteristics of selected cuvées and vintages.

Your house was founded in 1818 by Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon and is still family-owned to this day – which is remarkable. What does this continuity mean to you personally?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: Continuity is not simply heritage — it is a responsibility. At Billecart-Salmon, transmission is at the core of who we are. We pass down more than a business; we transmit a way of life, a philosophy, and an uncompromising standard.

For over two centuries, the House has followed its own path, independent of trends and short-term pressures. Representing the seventh generation means honoring my roots while ensuring that our vision continues to evolve with integrity. My role is not to reinvent, but to carry forward — crafting champagnes that transcend conventions and create memorable experiences.

„My role is not to reinvent, but to carry forward — crafting champagnes that transcend conventions and create memorable experiences.“

You represent the seventh generation leading Billecart-Salmon. How do you manage to strike the right balance between tradition and innovation in such a historic Champagne house?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: At Billecart-Salmon, tradition does not limit us — it gives us the confidence to move forward with precision and conviction. Innovation has always been part of our identity. For example, Jean Roland-Billecart introduced cold fermentation in the early 1950s — a bold decision at the time. That pioneering spirit continues to guide us today.

Our ability to push boundaries is rooted in a deep knowledge of our craft. As both growers and winemakers, we benefit from a dual perspective that gives us the freedom to refine, experiment and constantly reinvent the Champagne experience. Innovation, for us, is never disconnected from expertise — it grows from it.

It begins in the vineyard, where we have long embraced a philosophy of preservation that is both modern and enduring. We also innovate in our style. We recently evolved Le Réserve by extending its ageing and incorporating more than fifteen different vintages into a single bottle, bringing greater depth, complexity and finesse.

Your guiding principle has been: “Give priority to quality, strive for excellence” – for over 200 years. What does this commitment mean in terms of winemaking today?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: Our priority has always been quality. It is the foundation of the singularity and excellence of our Champagnes. It demands discipline, patience and unwavering standards. Time is more than a measure for us — it is the foundation of our pursuit of excellence. Our non-vintage wines age between three and seven years and our vintages age till 15 years, far exceeding legal minimums and industry standards.

This deliberate patience allows each cuvée to develop unparalleled finesse, depth and complexity. In a world driven by immediacy, we remain unapologetically dedicated to taking our time. Because we’re convinced that true greatness cannot be rushed but cultivated.

„Our priority has always been quality. It is the foundation of the singularity and excellence of our Champagnes.“

Billecart-Salmon is known for elegant, well-balanced Champagnes. How would you describe the style of the house in just a few words – and what matters most to you?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: Finesse, Precision and Authenticity. The essence of Billecart-Salmon lies in allowing the wine to lead the way. We seek purity over artifice, singularity over the ordinary. Our Champagnes are shaped by terroir and guided by restraint — luminous, precise, harmonious. Luxury, for us, lies in authenticity, craftsmanship and discretion. What matters most is going to the essential: revealing the true character of the vineyard without embellishment.

Rosé Champagne has always held a special place at Billecart-Salmon. What makes Le Rosé – and also Elisabeth Salmon 2013 – such outstanding cuvées in your portfolio?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: Rosé holds a singular place at Billecart-Salmon. It is iconic for several reasons. First, it reflects a long-standing commitment. Our Rosé journey began in 1840 and was revitalised in the 1970s by Jean Roland-Billecart, prioritising finesse, balance and gastronomic elegance at a time when the style was often more demonstrative. Second, it has shaped our identity. Le Rosé has become one of our true flagships, recognised worldwide for its delicate red fruit expression, silky texture and remarkable harmony. It is instantly identifiable in style, yet timeless in character.

Finally, its continued demand — often exceeding supply — confirms its enduring relevance. Its success is not driven by trend, but by consistency and vision. It embodies our commitment to crafting champagnes that offer distinctive and memorable experiences.

Elisabeth Salmon 2013 represents the ultimate expression of this rosé savoir-faire. Named after one of our founders, it combines structure, depth and exceptional ageing potential — a rosé built for longevity, shaped by patience and respect for terroir.

The 2013 vintage plays a central role in your current offerings – with both Louis Salmon Blanc de Blancs and Elisabeth Salmon Rosé. What characterises this vintage from your point of view?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: The 2013 vintage holds a very special place in our current offering. Following a cold winter and a particularly late flowering, 2013 unfolded slowly. The summer allowed for gradual, balanced ripening, preserving an exceptional freshness while developing beautiful aromatic precision. This rare growing cycle gave us grapes of great purity — vibrant, finely structured, and luminous. This is far more than a vintage release — it is a tribute to our founding siblings and to the transmission of family heritage that defines us.

Elisabeth Salmon 2013 expresses refinement, subtlety and creative precision, while Louis Salmon 2013 reveals depth, minerality and crystalline purity. Together, they embody two complementary savoir-faire, united by the same pursuit of excellence and respect for terroir.

With Louis, Elisabeth and Nicolas François, you honour the founding figures of the house. What values or ideals do you associate with these names today – beyond the wines themselves?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: When we speak of Louis, Elisabeth and Nicolas François, we are not only referring to cuvées — we are evoking the very foundations of our House. Together, they combined entrepreneurial vision, creative sensitivity and technical mastery. By naming our prestige cuvées after our three founders, we honour far more than history — we honour the values they embodied. These names are not just part of our past — they are living principles that shape our present and inspire our future.

Billecart-Salmon is present in many of the world’s finest gastronomic venues. How important is the German market for you – and how is your brand positioned there?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: Germany is a key market for us. It is a country that values craftsmanship, precision and authenticity — qualities deeply aligned with our philosophy. Our relationship with the Germanic markets dates back to the 19th century, when the House was already exporting throughout Europe, with established agencies in Hamburg and Bavaria, notably supplying Prince Charles of Bavaria. This long-standing presence has built a solid reputation over time. Today, in Germany, we are positioned as a family-owned House recognised for its consistency, precision and commitment to excellence — values that resonate strongly with the market.

Champagne today is no longer reserved for grand occasions – it’s also part of more intimate and personal moments, like Valentine’s Day. How do you view this cultural shift in how Champagne is enjoyed?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: At Billecart-Salmon, we do not simply craft wine; we create moments of joy. In that sense, I often say that we are artisans of happiness. Every bottle is conceived to elevate an experience and make it unforgettable.
For Valentine’s Day, I would naturally turn to our Rosé savoir-faire. Rosé has the ability to express emotion with subtlety and grace.

„At Billecart-Salmon, we do not simply craft wine; we create moments of joy.“

Finally: Can you give us a glimpse of what Champagne lovers can look forward to in the coming year – in terms of new vintages, special releases or initiatives?

Mathieu Roland-Billecart: We also have exciting projects ahead. Without revealing too much, I can share that we will celebrate spring in a distinctive way through our Blanc de Blancs Savoir-Faire, highlighting its purity, precision and luminous expression. As for the winter, our barrel-vinified Champagnes will take center stage — showcasing depth, texture and the craftsmanship behind more than 400 barrels and 24 large barrels.

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Photo credit: Leif Carlsson

+++ We’d like to thank Mathieu Roland-Billecart for the candid and very interesting interview! If you have an interesting brand, we should talk. Just send us an email with the subject line “about-drinks Interview” to redaktion@about-drinks.com – we look forward to hearing from you! +++